LEARN TO SURF VOL II. BEGINNER'S GUIDE
We answer the main questions that arise for beginner-level surfers when they want to learn to surf: Where to surf? When? Dangers?
LINK TO PART 1.
in what kind of planShould I learn to surf?
A well-known beach, ideally with sandy bottoms that become progressively deeper as you go. Avoid rocky bottoms or sandy beaches with large waves or strong currents.
Always try to have more people in the water (but for safety try to avoid crowds). He always comes accompanied.
When to go surfing?
The best times to go surfing are generally early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The temperature difference between sea and land causes air flow from hot to cold areas, in other words, wind on the coast! That is why it happens when the temperature difference is very wide, that is, during the hours where the sun is highest (between 11 a.m. and 17 p.m.). Therefore, it usually happens that generally during those hours there is more wind and the waves lose quality. Very early in the morning and just before sunset are the preferred times of day for surfers.
How to know when there are good waves?
A fundamental point for learn to surf, is knowing when there are the best conditions for your level. For very beginner surfers, the ideal is to ask an experienced friend, or a school in the area. Later, it is important that you learn to read the wave report. To do this, check out our article, “How to read surf reports” and you will learn to forecast waves.
Dangers?
The main risks in surfing are currents, waves above your level and rock bottoms, which you should avoid in the early stages of learning. Depending on where you learn, be careful with certain marine animals (Australia, South Africa or some areas of California) and above all, pay attention to the advice of the locals.
What should I do the first times I go surfing?
Learning to surf is a slow process. Don't expect to surf waves the first month of practice.
The first few days you go to the beach to surf you should stay in the foam zone. Take your board and position yourself right in front of where the wave breaks (they must be small waves no more than 1 meter high), wait next to your board, lie down on it, start paddling and wait for the wave to propel you with its energy. Feel the push force, paddle if necessary to accelerate and when you feel that you are going fast with almost no effort, jump up! You won't believe how fast you're going, the board will shake, but just like on a bike, the faster you go the easier it is to keep your balance.
Be careful: this is only the first stage of a long journey in learning to surf. It should not last more than two months in which you will become familiar with the sea and its safety regulations. Then, if you feel comfortable, you should venture towards waves that have not yet broken a few meters further in, always on known and safe beaches, and remember, enter accompanied. You will discover that the rules of the game have changed, paddling and catching waves that have not yet broken (or also called wave walls), require a new set of skills that we will detail later.
What skills do I need to train in my sessions when I start surfing?
First of all, you must acquire a good balance when paddling lying on the board, train your paddling strength, learn to sit on the board waiting for waves and turn your board while sitting on it without touching the bottom with your feet. Once you know and train these skills you will be able to paddle and eventually catch small walls of waves of up to 1 meter. You must recognize which days are good for surfing and which are the "bad" ones, which waves to paddle and which ones to let go, for this, unfortunately there are no magic formulas or explanations, it is only observation for hours, days and months of the sea, until you one day without realizing it you are reading it like a book and you can anticipate its movements to be where you should be at the right time.
It begins by trying to recognize which waves are going to the right or to the left and what kind of waves are the ones that run and which ones burst, closing violently at one time.
You will always be able to catch the foam, and although it is not a great contribution to your surfing skills, it is always entertaining and you will be able to enjoy being pushed by the force of the sea and you will put into practice your pop-up (action of getting up), speed and foot position. Continue in the foam until you meet the 3 objectives or skills mentioned above and then venture into deeper water and waves in formation. (see article “The phases of the wave”).
The wall.
We all hit the wall at some point (both in life and in surfing), that moment when you feel like you're not evolving despite your best efforts. A moment of stagnation and deep demotivation. RELAX, it's just one more stage in your progression, which usually passes after a couple of weeks. Don't let anxiety take control, let alone stop going into the water. The solution: analyze your movements, even using photos or videos, what are you doing wrong? ask for advice according to your level, most likely it is a problem with your posture when paddling, getting up or the timing when taking the wave; Write down the tips on a piece of tape on your board so you have them in mind when you're there. The wall or the valleys usually end with a peak in your abilities and a remarkable and brilliant progress in your surfing.
Anything else?
Yes, other important items that you should bring to your sessions:
- Neoprene suit (if the water is cold).
- Poncho to change you.
- Sunscreen.
- Water before and after.
- Reusable plastic bag to carry your wet suit back home.
Do not complicate yourself learning technical terminology or watching surf videos all day, the knowledge will come with time. Enjoy, and above all be patient, surfing is a path and not the end.
OTHER TIPS TO LEARN TO SURF.
– The best surfer is not always the best teacher.
– Surfing, like any sport, also has RULES, which in this case are more of rules of etiquette or social behavior, where the rights of other surfers to catch a certain wave are respected. These rules can be found in this article.
– Train your paddling and the muscles of your back, shoulders and glutes, train your speed/agility when standing up, the position of your hands and feet, the control of your body and your head when standing. Focus on bending your knees with your body weight in your heels, staying down with your center of gravity close to the board.
- The most important thing to learn to surf: More than any physical ability, surfing requires a lot of observation and timing, knowing where a wave will break is something as difficult to explain as it is to learn, so only practice will give you that skill with patience and time, a lot of time.
« Surfing is constantly changing but one thing is for sure: surfing NEVER gets boring.»
So go ahead!
See you on the water.